Queen of the South brings Texas barbecue to southern Vermont

The Queen of the South view from Route 10. Photo by Paula Benson.

CHESTER, Vt. – Ronica Humphrey has a compelling life story to tell, and if you’re lucky, she might share some of it with you over a plate of her homemade brisket tacos, or a pulled pork sandwich with a side of fried okra from her mobile kitchen, Queen of the South Food Truck, located at 665 Vermont Route 10 in Chester.

Humphrey was born and raised in Fort Worth, Texas, and her story includes 35 years of handling the pressures of owning her own property management company, seeing both of her parents through illnesses, and surviving a massive heart attack commonly referred to as the “widow maker,” at only 46 years of age. That was in 2017, and, after some complications and setbacks, Humphrey was ultimately given approval from her insurance company to receive lifesaving open heart surgery.

“They cracked me open like a walnut,” remarked Humphrey, in her casually upbeat way. She knew the stress of her job was affecting her health, but she wasn’t sure what else to do.

In the fall of 2022, Ronica went out with some friends and was introduced to Thomas Humphrey, another Fort Worth native. Once he asked for her phone number, their relationship progressed quickly. In December, they decided to book a trip to New York City, a special place for Ronica. “I’ve been going [there] since I was a kid, three or four times a year.” Thomas had never been, so she wanted to show him the city.

Ronica and Thomas Humphrey on their wedding day, in Central Park. Photo provided.

On Christmas Day, three months after their initial meet up, Thomas proposed.

“When you know, you know,” Thomas stated. Ronica nodded in agreement.

The couple got married in a small ceremony in Central Park on Jan. 19, 2023. Thomas wore a sharp suit jacket, jeans, and cowboy boots, and Ronica sparkled in an elegant pantsuit.

Thomas and Ronica were already looking into leaving Fort Worth when, in June 2023, Ronica’s father Bill was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma. It didn’t take much discussion before the three collectively agreed to sell off everything in Texas and start fresh in the northeast.

Ronica admitted she still regrets not having spent more time with her mother when she was sick. “I was constantly working. I knew that I could not do that with Dad.”

After looking at places around New England, they came across the Old Town Farm Inn that was for sale in Chester, Vt. Ronica researched its history; originally constructed in 1861, it was an early “poor farm,” and its basement was used as a speakeasy during prohibition. A recent owner had done some upgrades to the old farm house, so the structure was in good shape, with much of the original features and charm. They purchased the property sight unseen.

Initially, the idea was to reestablish the home as a bed and breakfast, but they’ve come up against some resistance regarding state fire and safety regulations, which they are currently trying to work out. At least for the time being, they are leaning into Plan B, the food truck, and Humphrey says she’s been pleasantly surprised at its success, and delights in bringing some real Texas barbecue to Vermonters.

The couple is trying, hopefully with assistance from the Chester Historical Society, to get the inn listed on the state historic registry, so they can move forward with their plans, retaining the building’s original features, making necessary updates, and complying with safety codes.

The land, which includes a small pond and antique barn – the Humphreys had the collapsing carriage house removed – sits on 11 acres. The house itself has a large farmhouse kitchen, nine bedrooms, nine bathrooms, a gorgeous spiral staircase, and a cozy hallway library with the original wooden bookshelves.

Ronica said her father was manning the smoker in the old barn just a few weeks prior to his passing on April 15, at age 79, and she feels grateful for that, and for the fact that they were able to spend his last few months on this adventure together.

On a recent Monday at Old Town Farm Inn, where the food truck is parked unless out at an event, Ronica greeted a crew of VTel employees on lunch break who had pulled in to try some of the barbecue they said they’d been hearing so many good things about.

With an easy smile and friendly Texas lilt in her voice, Ronica took everyone’s orders at the window, telling the men, “Feel free to take a seat at a picnic table, or in the gazebo,” before turning to prepare one of her mouth-watering meals.

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